Though you may have learned pattern making in design school, you need to know the specifics of making production-ready patterns in order to take your garments from sample to full scale production*! This means that you need to translate your construction details onto each pattern in a way that cutters, seamstresses, and technical designers can understand. Here are the guidelines that you should follow when drafting your patterns:
- Never use “cut-on-the-fold” patterns. Garment pieces are laid out on stacks of fabric so that multiple pieces can be cut at a time for maximum efficiency. Manufactures at scale cannot fold fabric in half.
- Always mark your grain line on each pattern piece.
- All seam allowances should be clearly marked.
- Always notch your seam allowances. This notch lets seamstresses know the exact seam allowance for each piece.
- Always notch connecting pattern pieces. This minimizes the risk of a pattern pieces being sewn together incorrectly.
- Always mark pleats and indicate the direct the fabric should be pleated.
- Always mark ruching.
- Always mark the name of the garment, your brand, and pattern piece reference number on each pattern piece.
- Always mark the size of the garment on each pattern piece.
- Always mark the fabrication the pattern should be used to cut (i.e. shell or lining) on each pattern piece.
- Always create a separate pattern piece for each cut of fabric that needs to be made. Do not mark “cut 2” or “cut 1 self, cut 1 lining.” In order to maximize efficiency, make a separate pattern piece for each piece of the garment.
- Always square off corner edges to a full 90 degree angle.
- Always true and mark darts.
- Always indicate the direction fabric should be folded within a dart.
- Always record the number and types of patterns that you have in the cutter’s must for each garment.
You can now submit either digital or paper patterns on Nineteenth Amendment and we can’t wait to see your next perfect pattern. If you require any support creating or grading a pattern, please check out our additional services and contact us! We have a number of experts ready to help!
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* Note, these requirements are for our own production. Different manufacturers and production houses have different standards but we find this is a good baseline to have the most information to make your patterns a reality.